In Shiga prefecture, at the Omi Jofu Traditional Kogei Center, I took a “full course” workshop to learn Choma (ramie) processing.
We started by peeling the outer skin, where the long, strong fibers are contained, from the stem. The leaves are stripped off the stalks in one swift motion, then the stalk is broken and the skin is stripped off easily using a curved finger from both ends and on both sides of the stalk. The strips of skin are then placed into water to keep them soft while working.
The strips are then placed one by one onto an angled wood surface and a handheld flat metal tool is used to scrape off the outermost green layer, leaving only the fibers used for making thread.
The strips are then split into the desired size, depending on what type of fabric will be made. After, each individual strand is joined together to form one continuous thread. The method for joining differs among the various places in Japan producing this fiber.
This illustration shows the basic technique of stripping the stalks and joining the threads.
After joining the thread can be wound into small balls using the contraption shown here, which wraps it lightly and evenly, passing the thread through a hook submerged in a dish of water as it is wound, as the thread is stronger when wet. For weft, the thread is used in this untwisted state, but if being used for warp, it is spun on a wheel to make it stronger.
This illustration shows the ball-winding setup.
For weaving, the traditional mechanism used for Omi Jofu is a variety of backstrap loom (koshi-hata) that is set into a stationary frame. A lever controlled by a rope attached to the foot of the weaver allows the sheds to be separated, while the tension of the warp threads is maintained and controlled by a strap around the weaver’s back. This video was actually taken at Aoyama Square in Tokyo, where I had an opportunity to try Omi Jofu weaving before I took the "full course" workshop in Shiga.
Thank you to Yamaguchi-sensei and Tateishi-sensei for teaching me (and to once more Tateishi-sensei for providing the choma from her own garden).
Here is a link to the Omi Jofu Traditional Kogei Center's website: https://omi-jofu.com/english/
I also visited Showa in Fukushima prefecture to see their Karamushi museum (the term "karamushi" seems to be used in place of "choma" when referring to ramie in Showa).
The craftspeople at Michi-no-Eki Karamushi-Ori no Sato were very kind in showing me their own method of production, processing, and hand-joining the fibers, all which differed just slightly from those of Omi. In Showa, for example, the stalks are soaked in water before the skin is stripped off (while this is not done in Omi) and the strips are scraped on both sides (only one side done in Omi).
I was able to weave a small coaster as a sample using the karamushi thread made in Showa.
A close-up of the coaster I wove. The thread they prepare for the coaster weaving experience is much thicker and rougher than that which I experienced at the Omi Jofu center. They told me that they create different weights of thread depending on the application.
The showroom at the Karamushi-Ori no Sato, presenting some fabric and products made using the Karamushi produced there.
This book, which I purchased from the museum shows detailed illustrations of some of the items held in the museum's collection, many of which are tools for the cultivation of karamushi and the production of the fiber and woven goods.
This shows the type of weft thread winder I saw used at the Omi Jofu center as well.
This shows the variety of backstrap loom used in Showa traditionally.
Another book I purchased from the museum showing some of the farming practices used in Showa.
The Karamushi produced in Showa is known for its high quality and it is a source of fiber for the UNESCO-recognized traditional art of Echigo Jofu, a kasuri (ikat) fabric which uses ramie and hemp. The industry was once very strong in Showa, but has since dwindled. There exists, however, a program called “Orihime” which is a long intensive program to teach applicants the entire process of growing, harvesting, and processing Karamushi for fiber, and incentivizes them to live in Showa to continue doing this work, and keep its culture and history alive.