I visited Yamada Momen, an active Aizu Momen factory in Aizu Wakamatsu, Fukushima prefecture. The fabric known as Aizu Momen is a slubby cotton (slubs are areas of spun thread that are thicker than others, almost like bumps). This region was once a major producer of this cotton cloth, and it is noted to be suitable for the weather of the area (the slubby spun cotton absorbing sweat very easily in the hot summers, but the weave structure retaining heat in the intense winters).
The automated looms and spooling/skeining machines used are operated by a simple motor located in the rafters of the workshop with belts reaching down to poer the looms (the looms and motors were once produced by Japanese car manufacturers). The design is like clockwork, each gear moving another to create a perfectly timed and incredibly effective operation.
Yamada Momen is one of the two Aizu Momen factories still operating this old style of automated loom.
In modern times to produce the signature striped patterns, Yamada Momen uses chemical dyes for consistency and ease of production, though Kusakizome (plant dyeing) and Aizome (indigo dyeing) were once also employed. I was able to photograph some old samples from their record books (thank you to the kind staff who helped me!). You can sense the change in desires of the customers over time: today’s playful and vibrantly colored fabrics, mostly used for western style clothing and accessories, compared to the more formal and austere feeling of the samples I’ve photographed from the book.
Here is a link to Yamada Momen's website: https://yamadamomen.com/
Thank you to the staff who took time to show me around!